Sunday, September 30, 2012

Oregon Chardonnay: Still Expensive, But Now Great


photo:  traveloregon.com

Not long ago, a friend gave me a bottle of chardonnay from a big-name Oregon producer as a “thank you” gift.  Recently, my husband and I opened it with a nice dinner.  He asked me what I thought of it, and gaveme a surprised look when I answered:  “Still expensive, but now it’s pretty good.”

He was puzzled, as perhaps you are, too.

You see, while Oregon has built up a great reputation over the last 40 years making world-class pinot noir, its chardonnay has generally been second-rate.  Oh sure, there are exceptions, but in general, Oregon chardonnays were relatively high-priced and not very good. 

This was a big surprise to me when I moved here nearly 14 years ago because chardonnay and pinot noir often thrive side by side.  In fact, it was one region – Burgundy in France – that made both wines famous.  Thus, I wondered, how could Oregon make such fantastic pinot noir and such mediocre chardonnay?
It turns out that I wasn’t the only one surprised by this fact.  The people who were growing the chardonnay in Oregon were baffled, as were the scientists who advised them.  They seemed to be doing everything right, but the wines didn’t improve.  Why?

In recent years, they’ve discovered the secrets.