Pinot Gris--The Summer Sipper!

Today was another gorgeous summer day, one of those which has to be enjoyed before all too soon we feel the crispness of autumn in the air. But what is the perfect accompaniment for such a day?

It isn’t red wine. It’s just too darned hot for anything that heavy. Yet, I live in Oregon, and Oregon is best known for its big reds, made from pinot noir grapes. Fortunately, Oregon’s has lesser known specialties, and it’s one of those with which I’ve recently fallen in love.

Of late, I’ve taken a liking to pinot gris—a white-wine cousin of Oregon’s most famous grape wine.

For a long time, people didn’t know the origin of the pinot gris grape.  It took DNA testing by experts at the University of California at Davis to find out that it is simply a mutation of the pinot noir, a fact which is further suggested by the identical shape of the leaves of both plants.  The appearance of pinot gris differs from pinot noir only in the color of the grapes.  Where pinot noir grapes are a dark blue or purple, pinot gris grapes are a light gray.  This is the genesis of the name “gris,” which means “gray” in French.  In Italian, “gray” is “grigio,” so pinot gris and pinot grigio are the same thing.

The best pinot gris wines come from Oregon and Alsace in France, but it’s made in a lot of other places, too.  The French always refer to their wines as pinot gris, while the Italians always refer to theirs as pinot grigio.  Wines made in Oregon or anywhere else might use either name. It’s simply a matter of preference or marketing.

Oregon has David Lett, founder of Eyrie Vineyards and generally regarded as the father of the modern Oregon winemaking business, to thank for bringing this grape to our state.  David Lett believes that pinot gris does better in Oregon than in California because of the cooler climate here.  Pinot gris doesn’t like a lot of hot weather, and it tends to ripen earlier than a lot of other types of wine grapes.  That makes it well suited to the west side of Oregon.

It’s the complexity of Oregon pinot gris which makes it stand out.
Complexity is difficult to find in any white wine that is also inexpensive, but this grape is exceptional. Swirl it in your mouth, and you’ll notice lots of different flavors.  After you swallow it, you’ll taste even more.  Although it is usually dry (i.e., not sweet), it is still very fruity, typically with pear, apple or melon flavors.  It is generally crisp and refreshing, which makes it perfect for sipping before or after dinner, but which also makes it a good accompaniment to summer foods, such as seafood, vegetables and chicken.  Most well-made Oregon pinot gris is well-balanced with some mineral flavors.  In contrast, French pinot grigio will be a little heavier, less fruity and more floral, not to mention that it will run you $5 to $25 more per bottle. As for true Italian pinot grigio, quite frankly, I don’t recommend you drink it. It is so light that it is virtually flavorless. You might as well drink a glass of cool water!

If you decide you want to try pinot gris, look for the following: King Estate (approximately $16); Wine By Joe (approximately $13); Erath (approximately $14); and A to Z Wineworks ($12).  These are all well known Oregon Pinot Gris, and they are consistently reliable year to year without too much variation in flavor.

To truly appreciate this magnificent grape, however, you have to indulge yourself at least once and sample a pinot gris dessert wine.  The crisp acidity of pinot gris balances sugar so beautifully that it is a great choice for a particular type of very sweet dessert-style wine, typically denoted on the label as “late harvest” or “ice wine.”  These wines are higher in alcohol content and a single serving is the equivalent of about half a regular glass of wine. Because they are intended to be savored in small portions, they are often produced in small 375 ml half bottles rather than full bottles.

One of Oregon’s best pinot gris dessert wines is made by King Estates and is called Vin Glacé.  To make this or any other ice wine, the winemaker lets the grapes freeze, and then presses them, leaving behind the ice crystals and the skins.  The result is a concentrated, sweet flavor that is very intense. Although fairly expensive at approximately $25, Vin Glacé is a real treat, tasting of oranges, apricots, honey and pineapple.  It can be served either with dessert or as dessert itself.

Chances are, if you are an Oregonian with an affinity for wine, you’ve sampled at least one Oregon pinot noir. After all, it’s the grape that makes this state’s wine industry famous. But to do your state justice, you have to try pinot gris this summer as well.  Pinot noir may be king of the state’s vineyards, but pinot gris is definitely its queen.