How to Do Heart Healthy Wine

An acquaintance recently e-mailed me with a request.  She said she thought she remembered that I liked wine.  If so, she said, she needed my help:  “My doctor just told me to add some wine to my dinner, and I’m not sure what to do.  Can you please help me?”

As I responded to my friend, I thought about the fact that I’ve been asked about this subject many times over the years.  I think we’ve all heard about the so-called “French paradox,” the apparent contradiction between the fact that the French eat a lot of saturated fats and yet they have significantly lower rates of heart attack and cardiovascular disease than Americans.  Several scientists undertook research to determine why this was the case, and after much consideration, consumption of red wine emerged as the leading theory.  Although the French do not drink a lot more alcohol than we do, they drink markedly more red wine than we do. 

Since this story broke in the United States in a 60 Minutes piece in 1991, many more studies have been conducted.  Although the scientists involved and those who have reviewed the studies don’t all agree on everything, there are a few things that most agree upon.

First, it’s likely a compound called resveratrol in the wine that is providing health benefits.  Resveratrol is found in the skins of grapes, and there’s more in red grapes than in white.  And because red wine is generally made by fermenting the grapes with the skins on for some period of time, there are much larger concentrations of it in red wine than in white wine.  Resveratrol also exists in grape juice, but the much higher concentrations in red wine suggest that something about the wine-making process dramatically increases its abundance.  Studies on animals have shown that resveratrol may be a powerful anti-oxidant that counteracts some of the negative effects of aging.  In mice and rats, it has been shown to lower blood sugar, fight cancer, reduce inflammation and generally improve cardiovascular health. 

Second, certain grapes have more resveratrol than others.  Cabernet is definitely king, with the highest levels.

Third, more is definitely not better.  Most experts who espouse the health benefits of red wine suggest no more than one glass a day for women and two for men.  The problem is not too much resveratrol; rather, the problem is the negative effects of too much alcohol.  In moderate amounts, alcohol has been shown to have little or no negative effects.  In larger amounts, however, it can cause significant harm.

So, with that background, what did I tell my friend, and what would I tell you about consuming wine for your health?

First, talk to your doctor.  Some people should not drink alcohol at all – perhaps because of a family history of alcoholism or the potential of alcohol to negatively interact with medicines.

If your doctor says okay, then I suggest adding one glass of red wine to your diet 4-5 nights a week.  As I noted above, cabernet is probably the best choice, and there are some good and affordable ones that are locally available right now, such as Cellar No. 8 (California; $11); Five Rivers (California; $9); Hess Select (California; $13); Fish Eye (California; $7); and Columbia Crest Two Vines (Washington; $8). 

Unfortunately, cabernet tends to be rather tannic (tannin being the component in wine that makes your tongue feel leathery).  For that reason, many folks find it to be an acquired taste.  If you’re not an experienced red wine drinker, you might find it easier to start with a lighter varietal such as pinot noir or merlot and then ease your way into cabernet.

Once you’ve added a glass of pinot, cab or merlot to your diet, remember that the wine experience can be greatly altered by the food that accompanies it.  For example, cabernet is almost always better with food, provided the food is hearty.  It’s not so great with delicate flavors or with vegetarian dishes or fish.  If that’s on your menu, try drinking your nightly glass of cab before you dine.

Regardless of how much “backing in” one does, some people will simply take a while to develop a taste for dinner-style wine.  My friend, who had never even tasted wine before she wrote to me, is such a person.  For her and for those like her, I recommend trying a port-style wine.  Port-style wine is a sweet red.  It typically tastes smoother than dry red, which makes it more accessible to most people.  If you go this route, I recommend Benjamin Port from Australia at $10-14.  (Technically, Benjamin is not true port, since it isn’t made in Portugal, but if you aren’t an experienced port drinker, I doubt the subtle difference in taste will be worth the dramatic difference in price!) 

One thing to remember about port and port-style wines is that they have higher alcohol levels than typical dry reds.  Because of this, you should only drink half as much—about 2-3 ounces.  By comparison, the typical pour of dry red wine is 4-5 ounces, so you should find that your port bottle lasts twice as long!

Keep in mind that port is not a dinner wine.  The best time to drink port is after dinner as dessert.  Remember, however, that alcohol does interfere with REM sleep, so be sure you finish it several hours before you go to bed.

So now, having told you all the health benefits of wine according to the scientists, let me suggest that resveratrol may or may not be wine’s greatest contribution to good health.  I wouldn’t argue that there are health benefits to moderate red wine consumption, but perhaps there’s more to it than just the wine itself.  One of the greatest joys of a good bottle of wine is sharing it with family and good friends.  If you’re like me, time with family and good friends means lots of laughter and warm feelings, both of which have been proven to promote good health.  So which is better for you – the red wine itself or sharing it with good company?  I’m not sure any researcher could tell you which one did the most good!