Champagne: Not Just for New Years

My husband and I are blessed with lots of good friends. But we’re especially lucky to be friends with one particular couple. They’re easy to talk with, easy to hang out with, nonjudgmental, interesting, well-read, funny, entertaining and appreciative. They’re not picky eaters and they’re always appreciative of whatever we serve. No matter whom else we invite to a party or dinner, this couple gets along with them.

Wanting to explain how much we appreciate this couple, we once told them that they were like lettuce – they went with everything and offended no one. Oddly, they weren’t terribly flattered! So I quickly came up with a better analogy – they were like fine Champagne, I told them. They compliment everything, they offend no one, they are great for celebrations, and they brighten up ordinary events. Unlike the first comparison, they thought this one was great! 

This story recently came to my mind as I tried to solve the problem of Thanksgiving after my husband advised me that we would be hosting his family for Thanksgiving this year. That makes me nervous. As much as I enjoy hosting, selecting the wines for a family event is more than a little nerve-wracking.

I know that seems odd for someone who writes a wine column. You see, it’s a delicate dance to choose wine for a family event. You want something that everyone will like. If anyone doesn’t like it, you’ll hear about it. Not directly, of course (everyone will be excruciatingly polite), but later--from some third person who wasn’t even at your dinner table. In just a matter of hours your carefully honed reputation will be in shreds.

Fundamentally the problem is this: While friends and acquaintances tend to give you the benefit of the doubt and assume that even if they didn’t like the wine you served, it must have some redeeming qualities, family is different. They don’t feel the need for restraint. Family is always brutally--and sometimes painfully--honest.

In addition, there’s the problem of how much to spend. You don’t want to spend a lot of money on wine for a family event or you’ll hear about that too. Somebody (probably your brother-in-law or your father) will note that for all the money you spend on wine it seems you ought to be able to replace those uncomfortable, rickety chairs (even if they are antiques that came with the dining room set. This, by the way, is not a hypothetical). And finally, there’s the problem of choosing a wine that isn’t everyday (no Yellowtail, no Kendall Jackson) but also isn’t so high-brow (read, Italian Brunello or a fancy Bordeaux) that nobody’s palate will be accustomed and somebody will complain that they don’t like it.

So, what to do?

Well this year, I’m letting our friends inspire me. I’m serving Champagne. Well, actually, I’m not serving Champagne, which is, technically, sparking wine made in the Champagne region of France. Although I love true champagne, it’s rather expensive at more than $30 for decent bottles and $50 for really good ones, (and I don’t want to hear about the horrible chairs again.) Plus, given that we’re expecting between 15 and 20 people, I have to buy more than one bottle, and I can’t spend that much money on the wine without ruining Thanksgiving by instigating a big fight with my husband.

So, to solve all my problems, I’ve decided this year to serve sparking wine from the United States with my Thanksgiving dinner. The sparkling wines from California, Oregon and Washington have steadily improved in quality over the last ten years to the point that I’m very proud to put them on my table. They are made in the same manner as the wines in Champagne, using the same type of grapes, and often, by the very same wine makers. In fact, a number of the best-known Champagne houses – Mumm, Chandon, Piper-Heidsieck and Roederer in California to name just a few – have bought vineyards in the United States and started operations here.

The trend has even made it to Oregon. I recently visited Domaine Meriwether in the Willamette Valley and discovered that their sparkling wine is made by a Frenchman from Champagne.

These high quality sparkling wines, like their French cousins, are a great match for a wine variety of food, which makes them perfect for a meal with diverse flavors – like Thanksgiving. The crisp acidity nicely cuts through high-fat dishes, while standing up nicely to vegetables and salty foods. It also acts to clear the palate so that each bite of food can be enjoyed by itself without a “food hangover” from the last bite.

Of course, the obvious benefit to serving sparkling wine with Thanksgiving is that it contributes to the enjoyment and celebration of the holiday. After all, who doesn’t feel just a little bit giddy when they hear the “pop” of the cork from a bubbly wine? Let the celebration begin!

The following are some of the wines I would recommend for this Thanksgiving. When you choose a sparkling wine, there are a few things to know about the labels. First, if the wine is a “brut,” it’s going to be dry (i.e., not sweet) and it’s going to stand up well to food. That’s what I recommend for a meal like Thanksgiving. But if you prefer a little bit of sweetness in your sparkling wine, look for the following terms: “extra sec” or “extra dry” is typically a little sweeter than “brut”: “sec” is a little sweeter still; “semi-sec” is even sweeter, and “doux,” which is difficult to find, is very sweet and should probably only be drunk with or as dessert.

Second, with the exception of the Argyle, you won’t find a year on any of these labels. They are “non vintage” wines that are made from a blend of several years’ production. Blending several wines together is the best way for the makers to produce a consistent, high-quality wine every year. The wines will always be good when you buy them, but they are meant to be drunk within a few months. Do not try to age them, or you’ll be very disappointed.

Finally, with these wines, there is some correlation between price and quality. However, all of them are very worthy wines, so if the Chateau Ste. Michelle is what you can afford, serve it proudly!

Five Sparking Wines To Consider

Argyle Brut ($25; Oregon)
Chateau Ste. Michelle ($13; Washington)
Domaine Chandon Brut ($18; California)
Piper Sonoma Brut ($16; California)
Mumm Napa Brut Prestige ($19; California)